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when a stupa lights the middle path


  

Karma Sonam

The present picture of Ladakh is a very different one from what the scenario was during my childhood. People used to follow a sustainable way of life which had components of local culture and practices ingrained in it. We had a traditional mud house in the lower slopes of our village in Rumtse, near a small stream, which is a tributary of the Indus. Rumtse lies on the Leh-Manali highway, at a distance of 79 kilometres from Leh. People relied on livestock rearing and agriculture to make a living. Cash crop like green peas was yet to replace barley. Most of us had a minimalistic lifestyle like sleeping on the floor inside our mud houses with gunny sacks spread on the floor to protect ourselves from the cold floor. In the agro-pastoral society that prevailed, people had few livestock as well along with the agricultural land, but there were herders who relied only on livestock rearing for their livelihoods. The livestock was a means of livelihood and sustenance in the form of dairy products, meat, wool, pashmina (cashmere) and trade of animals.

Predators like the wolf and snow leopard share this landscape with the people who live here and they find these livestock as an easy catch to prey upon causing economic loss to the herders and posing a threat to their livelihoods. The people claim that wolves are responsible for more than half of the livestock predations by carnivores. The other carnivores that are responsible for livestock depredation in this landscape are snow leopards and eurasian lynx. As a survival strategy, the community had built shangdongs or wolf traps to trap wolves and eventually dispose them off. A shangdong is a conical stone structure, where a live-bait is kept to lure a wolf inside it. As the wolf jumps inside the shangdong on seeing the livestock bait, the protruding, upward-slant walls of the wolf trap prohibit the wolf from getting out. The villagers viewed it as the greed of the wolf which trapped it. I remember when I was a child; I had been witness to one such act in our village in Rumtse. It was a big wolf with a blackish coat trapped inside the shangdong and I was present with the crowd to witness how it was stoned to an eternal rest.

Since then, life has changed a lot. Ladakh has grown into a economically stable territory in India and apart from the traditional livestock rearing and agricultural dependent livelihood option, people have diversified into tourism, government service, army, private jobs in schools, non-governmental organizations, business organizations and entrepreneurship. The lifestyles have shifted from a traditional one to a resource dependent one and so have the people and their perspectives. Our family has shifted from the mud house to a concrete one near the main road in the village, which is the Leh-Manali highway, and I have been working in issues related to community based-wildlife conservation for quite a while now. I have come to realize the importance of wildlife such as snow leopard, wolf, lynx, ibex, bharal, urial, argali and Tibetan gazelle and learned that most of these are unique and found only in Ladakh and nowhere else in India.

I started working in the field of wildlife conservation twenty years ago and have since realized the importance of conservation. After working with a couple of organizations, I got an opportunity to work with a conservation organization based in Mysore. I have a full-time field duty where I interact with the communities here in Ladakh to raise awareness about wildlife and nature and try to understand their challenges with wildlife. Over the years, we have been working on initiatives to reduce negative interactions of humans with wildlife and have chalked out community driven programs like the livestock insurance scheme for compensating losses due to depredation, predator-proofing of livestock corrals, creating grazing free reserves on community owned land to help revive the native flora, nature education for school children and a few more similar initiatives. Many of these initiatives were running successfully in Spiti in Himachal Pradesh which has a similar trans-himalayan landscape as Ladakh and thus the scientists working on these initiatives thought of introducing them here in Ladakh.

Despite all the work, I had always felt the need to address the shangdongs that were present in the landscape. A few years back, researchers and scientists with whom I have been working, initiated the idea of integrating traditional religious practices into wildlife conservation by building stupas near these shangdongs. Stupas are religious structure, which contains sacred relics associated with the Buddhism. This ideation was done in consultations with religious leaders, local government administration, villagers including youth groups, women alliance and herders. As the times have changed and Ladakh is moving towards modernization, most of the shangdongs in this landscape are not functional. As the discussions progressed, a few communities showed interest in this idea and were ready to take up this innovative solution to tackle human-wildlife conflict.

The first such construction of a stupa near the shangdong was initiated in the Chushul village in the Changthang region of Ladakh in 2018. Here four shangdongs were dismantled and a stupa was constructed near one of these shangdongs. The shangdong is dismantled only by removing a few stones from the structure, which creates an escape route for a trapped animal. In doing this, the traditional architectural structure is preserved to celebrate the tradition of the communities along with building a stupa near it to integrate Buddhist principles of compassion towards all living beings. The message is to strengthen the traditional link between culture, livelihoods and conservation. A religious ceremony follows this construction wherein the stupa is consecrated by the Rinpoche. The second such initiative was carried out in Gya-Miru region of Ladakh, in my village Rumtse in 2019. Here, the community helped in dismantling two shangdongs for the construction of a stupa near one of the shangdongs.

The stupa in Rumtse was made on the same shangdong where I had witnessed the loss of a wolf during my childhood. The guilt which I had throughout the years is slowly healing as I realize that it is important to make people aware about wildlife and bring in innovation to deal with human-wildlife conflict. I realize that working in conservation has given me a chance to interact with a wide variety of people and thus made me think and take a holistic approach in whatever I do. I feel blessed to be part of such an initiative and I want to take the message to other parts of the landscape. Our team has been surveying shandongs and have found over eighty shandongs till now in Ladakh. The initiative has certainly provided us with a ray of hope that wolves and herders and thus wildlife and people can co-exist harmoniously together in a shared landscape.


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